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I rather have 4 gauges for each cylinder That way its faster Your single gauge and gang manifold is time and unnecessary work All four gauge system reflects on coresponding cylinders View the readings blip a few times Tweek and done But your sync details are gr8 Thanks

I recently acquired a TLR 200 reflex it's the earlier version from 79 to 86 I have a 1983 and a 6 volt system I need to change out the rectifier it says rectify regulator on the unit SH542-6 39 6v and I'm making to much voltage when over half revs Is there a replacement in 6v Kindest regards Bell

This is awesome I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure out how to sync 🤔

Why not just use compressed air to blow out the piston. Waaaayyyy faster

Cool video

Way to go Jessie! We need more young folks like you, who are interested in keeping these old bikes on the road!

great video but can you make a video more angles of setting this type of carb float height?

Hey folks, Is the bolt connection of this unit (to the bottom of the battery box) a functional ground to the frame? Did the elimination of the original rectifier remove a green-wire to chassis connection? How about the removal or the original regulator (did that remove a green to chassis connection)? Thanks!

Great teacher! Thank u.

You're pretty lucky if just replacing rollers, springs, and caps, will fix a slipping starter clutch.

I’m thinking of taking my chainguard off. You have any issues with it off?

I set them all at once with a quad set

I set my idle mixture first

Removing carburetor assembly (CB250, CB360,CL360,CJ250T,CJ360T): Remove left front foot peg. Remove gearshift pedal retaining screw. Remove gearshift pedal. Remove left rear crankcase cover (the cover where the clutch cable goes in--don't remove the clutch cable from the cover. The cover is held by four Phillips-head screws). Remove the hose clamps that hold the air-cleaner rubber intake ducts onto the choke sides of the carbs. Remove the air cleaners, still connected to their rubber ducts. Loosen the insulator ring clamps (The insulators are the rubber boots/ducts between cylinder heads and the carb intakes). Detach spark plug wires from plugs and put the wires out of the way. Be careful not to harm the ignition wire that goes into the points housing. Pry the carb assembly away from the head, toward where the air boxes were. Lower the carb assembly to the left and pull it out the left side. Detach the throttle cables from the carbs.

Both my carb plungers/pistons are stuck in their bores. How do I get them loose?

CMC put's out nothing but to the point, clear, concise, quality video's for us not so mechanically inclined! Thanks for the great video's and use my CMC koozie cup holder all the time! :-)

So it’s ok if some the oil mixes with the gas when all done?

Very nice video. As in my project, all of that birds nest still looks like heXX! And with myT120, I would like a much bigger headlite bucket to at least STUFF the wiring into….

also I do not see the balance dots on my new Michelin tires...thanks Dan

hey Brandon Your tools are helpful, but I keep puncturing tubes...what is the secret? that part of the video goes by pretty quick...thanks Dan

You did not use a "proper crimping tool". You did not create a proper crimp or you would not been able to pull the wires free. While I do like the Posi Taps, they are not as good as a Proper Crimp connection.

Is this really necessary? Used to work at a motorcycle shop, and eventually came to the conclusion that it was better to leave well enough alone (unless doing major work). My reasons? 1. Never seen one even 5% full. 2. Deposits coating the drum are generally "sticky", and probably help trap more particles. 3. Scraping the drum out is likely to re-contaminate the oil in certain circumstances. All of this may explain why Honda didn't bother to put a CF service port in the clutch cover of the 360. Despite all of this, I still like CMC videos.

great video, hoping it will help me sort my XL125S out. Whats the tool called that lights up?

I got one year out of a 100 dollar Motobatt

the flathead insert on my screw is extremely damaged but i can still adjust it, i’d like to find a replacement worst comes to worse when i adjust it soon . anyone know where i could get one? ik this video is 8 years old but anything would be awesome 😅

My petcock is leaking from the top of the nut (what you referred to as the smooth side) and I can’t seem to fix it??

I just got myself my first bike. A 1972 CB125K5. There aren't many tutorials out there, but it has the same internals as the bike shown by you. Just fixed the lack of power in the high revs. Great thanks for the thorough tutorial.

What if I got a few cups of oil coming out when I took off the rotor cover

P Yes mine has the cable operated disc brake but it works I would change it out in a second for a 175 brake with dial links

Synchronization of the carburetors is essential on these good luck I own one myself

Very thorough video series, although it doesn't address the elephant in the room - the dreaded off-idle rich bog that occurs on CB360's after the bike is warmed up. This problem may be better or worse with an aftermarket exhaust. Can be overcome, but requires super tricky jetting.

Any idea when the heavier duty rebound shock all in black will be available thanks, Jack

Great explanation thanks!

This process worked great! Thanks for the video! Only thing that went wrong for me was the vinegar left streaks/stains on my paint. might have to try and buff it out or repaint it.

Great video but omg get to the damn point of the video atleast put timestamps so people can find the useful info.

How do you know how many newtons each bolt needs to be tightened?

I rode a CL100 when I was a teenager. Cool video. Seems a lighter single cylinder engine might be better for that run. It didn’t look like you were on roads with heavy traffic and a high speed limit. Very interesting video. Much better than the look at my restored bike or I have a bike for sale videos.

Thank you for your video, I have a question: what does it mean 15 /48 on sprockets, I would like to know which is the best sprockets to have on a Suzuki GSXR 1100 stock motor after adding Mikuni RS Series Carburetor (RS36-D3 K) - 36mm. For fast response. Thank you again.

"It should be done with it running correct?" dear god

Super helpful thanks

Just got a butchered ‘71 cb350 the other day…. Already dropped a pretty penny on the site today. So lucky to have this resource. I got a long road ahead of me 🥲

This is so awesome! I am "restoring" my first CB350 (or any bike) and this channel is a lot of help. Also the on line parts store is fantastic! I'll be making purchase every payday fer sher.

very helpful for my Honda cb 450 k 1975

What torque should the oild drain plug be tightened to?

You are a briiliant teacher, I have been working on motorcycles since 1963 and still learn from you.

Which is better for better mileage in cruising speed?

I'm probably a bit stupid at the moment. But where do I get the +6V to the coil on my XL250 1973? No spark, and I can't find out why. Coil works and spark plug's new. The bike did run TO the MOT, during the MOT....but not on the way home, and not since.

I bought a condenser from you guys only lasted 40 miles until it gave up the ghost.

Pick tools ordered and Chinese food takeout ordered 👍

Quick question, what if the test light doesn't light when testing the battery? Does that mean i should replace it?